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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 14th, 2023

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  • Hehe, PETG and glass is a notorious combination, I only printed it a few times but I put covered the bed with blue painter’s tape just to be on the safe side. I’ve never really had any adhesion problems after starting to use Magigoo (which I also never wash off, I just add another layer every few months) but occasionally I get a bit impatient waiting for the bed to cool down.


  • Good recommendations, it’s almost the same list of upgrades that I’ve done to my E3v2. I went with a dual Z-screw upgrade which uses a sync belt instead of a second motor, since I use the stock board and didn’t want to run two steppers off the same driver (it should work IIRC, but it seemed annoying if they get out of sync since the printer can’t level them individually)

    Also never use that damn scraper everyone I know who has including myself has a scar from it lol

    I use it all the time if a model won’t come off easily. I grab the blade between two fingers, and then hammer the model from the side with the handle to knock it off the plate :)

    You do NOT need an all metal hotend with this, use the stock red one it’s all you need

    Technically the hotend becomes “all metal” with this, as the PTFE-tube does not go all the way down to the nozzle after the upgrade. Best illustration I could find


  • Intel NUC running Linux. Not the cheapest solution but can play anything and I have full control over it. At first I tried to find some kind of programmable remote but now we have a wireless keyboard with built-in touchpad.

    Biggest downside is that the hardware quality is kind of questionable and the first two broke after 3 years + a few months, so we’re on our third now.



  • This is my wireguard docker setup:

    version: "3.6"
    services:
      wireguard:
        image: linuxserver/wireguard
        container_name: wireguard
        cap_add:
          - NET_ADMIN
          - SYS_MODULE
        environment:
          - PUID=116
          - PGID=122
          - TZ=Europe/Stockholm
          - ALLOWEDIPS=192.168.1.0/24
        volumes:
          - /data/torrent/wireguard/config:/config
          - /lib/modules:/lib/modules
        ports:
          - 192.168.1.111:8122:8122  # Deluge webui
          - 192.168.1.111:9127:9127  # jackett webui
          - 192.168.1.111:9666:9666  # prowlarr webui
          - 51820:51820/udp           # wireguard
          - 192.168.1.111:58426:58426  # Deluge RPC
        sysctls:
          - net.ipv4.conf.all.src_valid_mark=1
          - net.ipv6.conf.all.disable_ipv6=1
          - net.ipv6.conf.default.disable_ipv6=1
        restart: unless-stopped
    

    Can reach the webuis from LAN, no other network configuration was necessary. 192.168.1.111 is the server’s LAN address. The other services are configured very similar to your qbittorrent, and don’t expose any ports. Can’t promise it’s 100% correct but it’s working for me.






  • Going full ergo is great, and I also think it’s sad that we’re stuck with legacy keyboards. Though I don’t like typing on ortho unless it’s also split (and preferably a little tented), the columns don’t line up with my fingers unless I keep my forearms close together. Staggered keyboards at least have diagonal-ish finger movements, even though the angle is different for left and right hands.





  • Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven’t done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It’s a bit expensive, but I’ve reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven’t tried, I’m assuming they work equally well.




  • It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

    As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.


  • ffheinto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBad Oozing on SV06
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    27 months ago

    Ahh, I thought you meant you had a 0.2mm nozzle, but now I see you probably meant layer height.

    Moisture absorbtion is rarely a problem with PLA, but hopefully dehydration won’t hurt, as long as you don’t accidentally overheat it and it deforms. I’ve left rolls of PLA out in the open for 6 months without noticing any deterioration. Both your filaments used to print fine, and then the oozing spontaneously started with both of them?

    2mm retraction should be more than enough for a direct drive extruder.


  • ffheinto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldBad Oozing on SV06
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    47 months ago

    What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.